Active Romantic
ACTIVE ROMANTIC
01
FASHION
WITHOUT
PATERN
Princess dresses with sneakers.
Punk aesthetics with the romanticism of the 19th century.
Huge logos on garments of more than three zeros. It is a tendency to break trends.
Fashion is a game with only one rule: to have fun
02
A REVIEWED TALE:
SNEAKERELLA
In summer 2018, the illustrator Angelica Hicks, muse of the new Gucci, replaced the glass shoe for a sneaker. Without a doubt, sneakers are the new heels. After decades of being used merely as a sports shoe, in the last twenty years its growth has been unstoppable. Designers like Yohji Yamamoto contributed with his new line Y—3 released with Adidas in 1984 to this growth. He became the first designer to seal a partnership between a dress shoe and a sports brand. Miuccia Prada, always a few steps ahead, was also one of the first designers to release a model of sneakers for nautical purposes.
On the other hand, during the 90s Karl Lagerfeld did not hesitate to mix Channel’s tweed with other codes from the urban culture, sneakers included. In January 2014, he went one step further and turned Chanel into the first brand to include sneakers to its high fashion collection. Lagerfeld was a firm believer that fashion means reinvent or die.
From the return to classic models like Vans, Stan Smith or Chuck Taylor, to the ssuccess of the Ugly Sneakers released by Balenciaga or Louis Vuitton, a big number of people do not want to give up on the comfort and lightness of sneakers. Now they have even sneak into offices and nightlife. “After so many seasons of comfortable shoes it will be hard to make woman wear heels again”, said Federica Montelli, responsible of the Rinascente store.
This trend change is also related to the fourth feminist movement. At a time when a new generation is questioning the old tales of princesses, it makes sense that labels that
This trend change is also related to the fourth feminist movement. At a time when a new generation is questioning the old tales of princesses, it makes sense that labels that
were traditionally associated with women are also questioned. The actress Kirsten Stewart clearly illustrated this on the Cannes Festival: while the media was taking pictures of her at the red carpet, she took her heels off. A gesture of protest with a big symbolic value: “If you are not asking men to wear heels, you cannot ask me to do so”.
ONE FABRIC
03
TULLE, LACES AND OPENWORK (WITH SNEAKERS)
The ballerina takes off her shoes and puts on the sneakers. Designer Molly Goddard, known for her fantastic day to day princess dresses, has been one of the main driving forces of this trend: “my concern is for women to be comfortable”.
04
ROMANTIC
ACTIVE PUNK
In the social media edge where the channels of information are multiples and data travels in an exponential way, there is a combination of opposite trends and aesthetics that create provocative contrasts. This bring novelty and shows the complexity of an extremely connected world. Thus, this summer the romantic and decadent world of the 19th century will be mixed with the aesthetics athleisure and the punk spirit. An explosive mix that challenges every label.
ONE ICON:
VIVINNE WESTWOOD:
GOOD SAVE THE QUEEN.
Punk would not have existed without Vivienne; she was behind the legendary looks of the Sex Pistols, full of tartan and broken shirts. She has become a symbol of the fight against climate change and a big driving force of sustainable fashion. Her slogan is “Buy less, choose right, make it last”.
ONE TREND:
The Athleisure.
Norma Kamali was the first designer to introduce the active clothing concept in the everyday clothes. Kamali, who had only designed swimsuits until that moment, thought: “What would I wear to go swim? A grey jacket.” Therefore, she bought a lot of grey fabric and created an explosion of styles.
ONE MOOD: Romanticism.
During moments of crisis and stress, romanticism offers an escape. Designers like Alessandro Michele, creative director of Gucci, develop a romantic vision of the world exalting the beautiful, the creativity, and nostalgia. In an increasingly robotized world, the return to the origin and the essence reassures us.
05
LOGOMANIA
“Logos are fashion,” said Naomi Klein in 1999 on her book called No Logo, about the power of brands in our society. Two decades later, logomania shows its power along with streetwear. The career of the designer Virgil Abloh is a reflection of it: after creating the Brand Off-White, the designer signed for Louis Vuitton to rejuvenate their male section. On the other hand, Vetements, with its creative director in charge of Balenciaga, has also been key to the globalization and extension of the phenomenon.
ACTIVE ROMANTIC
01
FASHION
WITHOUT
PATTERN
Princess dresses with sneakers. Punk aesthetics with the romanticism of the 19th century. Huge logos on garments of more than three zeros. It is a tendency to break trends. Fashion is a game with only one rule: to have fun.
02
A REVIEWED TALE:
SNEAKERELLA
In summer 2018, the illustrator Angelica Hicks, muse of the new Gucci, replaced the glass shoe for a sneaker. Without a doubt, sneakers are the new heels. After decades of being used merely as a sports shoe, in the last twenty years its growth has been unstoppable. Designers like Yohji Yamamoto contributed with his new line Y—3 released with Adidas in 1984 to this growth. He became the first designer to seal a partnership between a dress shoe and a sports brand. Miuccia Prada, always a few steps ahead, was also one of the first designers to release a model of sneakers for nautical purposes. On the other hand, during the 90s Karl Lagerfeld did not hesitate to mix Channel’s
tweed with other codes from the urban culture, sneakers included. In January 2014, he went one step further and turned Chanel into the first brand to include sneakers to its high fashion collection. Lagerfeld was a firm believer that fashion means reinvent or die.
From the return to classic models like Vans, Stan Smith or Chuck Taylor, to the ssuccess of the Ugly Sneakers released by Balenciaga or Louis Vuitton, a big number of people do not want to give up on the comfort and lightness of sneakers. Now they have even sneak into offices and nightlife. “After so many seasons of comfortable shoes it will be hard to make woman wear heels again”, said Federica Montelli, responsible of the Rinascente store.
This trend change is also related to the fourth feminist movement. At a time when a new generation is questioning the old tales of princesses, it makes sense that labels that
were traditionally associated with women are also questioned. The actress Kirsten Stewart clearly illustrated this on the Cannes Festival: while the media was taking pictures of her at the red carpet, she took her heels off. A gesture of protest with
a big symbolic value: “If you are not asking men to wear heels, you cannot ask me to do so”.
ONE FABRIC
03
TULLE, LACES AND OPENWORK (WITH SNEAKERS)
The ballerina takes off her shoes and puts on the sneakers. Designer Molly Goddard, known for her fantastic day to day princess dresses, has been one of the main driving forces of this trend: “my concern is for women to be comfortable”.
04
ROMANTIC ACTIVE PUNK
In the social media edge where the channels of information are multiples and data travels in an exponential way, there is a combination of opposite trends and aesthetics that create provocative contrasts. This bring novelty and shows the complexity of an extremely connected world. Thus, this summer the romantic and decadent world of the 19th century will be mixed with the aesthetics athleisure and the punk spirit. An explosive mix that challenges every label.
ONE ICON:
VIVINNE WESTWOOD:
GOOD SAVE THE QUEEN.
Punk would not have existed without Vivienne; she was behind the legendary looks of the Sex Pistols, full of tartan and broken shirts. She has become a symbol of the fight against climate change and a big driving force of sustainable fashion. Her slogan is “Buy less, choose right, make it last”.
ONE TREND:
The Athleisure.
Norma Kamali was the first designer to introduce the active clothing concept in the everyday clothes. Kamali, who had only designed swimsuits until that moment, thought: “What would I wear to go swim? A grey jacket.” Therefore, she bought a lot of grey fabric and created an explosion of styles.
ONE MOOD: Romanticism.
During moments of crisis and stress, romanticism offers an escape. Designers like Alessandro Michele, creative director of Gucci, develop a romantic vision of the world exalting the beautiful, the creativity, and nostalgia. In an increasingly robotized world, the return to the origin and the essence reassures us.
05
LOGOMANIA
“Logos are fashion,” said Naomi Klein in 1999 on her book called No Logo, about the power of brands in our society. Two decades later, logomania shows its power along with streetwear. The career of the designer Virgil Abloh is a reflection of it: after creating the Brand Off-White, the designer signed for Louis Vuitton to rejuvenate their male section. On the other hand, Vetements, with its creative director in charge of Balenciaga, has also been key to the globalization and extension of the phenomenon.
Photographs of Happypunt.
Photographer: Lisa Pram.
Model: Mariona Seira.
Makeup artist and stylist: Carla Agudo
Garments and styling: Happypunt design and styling team.